When it’s springtime in Wisconsin, we might wear sandals one day and our winter boots the next. It leaves us longing for the warmer days of summer. Unless, of course, you know what bounty only spring can bring. For just a few weeks every year, ramps, or wild leeks, are ready for harvest. They offer a perfect balance of mild onion and garlic flavor. Harvest or buy as many as you can get your hands on, then preserve them so you have savory, ramp-y goodness the rest of the year. The best way to preserve ramps? Smoke them and make some pesto! Then you’ll be able to make this grilled cheese sandwich all year long.

I smoke my ramps over maple on a charcoal grill. You can use a smoker or a gas grill, but nothin’ beats charcoal! And nothing beats the smell of smoked ramps. It’s quite a mix of smoky, sweet, caramel, garlic and so many other aromas I cannot. even. describe. The first time I smoked ramps, I lived in downtown Madison on a street with lots of foot traffic. Everyone passing by stopped and asked if they could have some of whatever was cooking on that grill.

You could make almost any nut work with smoked ramps in a pesto, but I chose pistachio because it complements the smokiness and adds to the vivid green color you want in a pesto.

Pairing the unique flavor of the pesto with the right cheese was my favorite part of developing this recipe. Who doesn’t want an excuse to eat cheese?! And strawberries?! And cured pork?!

After testing a few combos, I decided against the cured pork back, or lomo, because the flavor overpowered the pesto. The mild sweetness of the strawberries was a perfect companion for the smoky, salty, savory pesto. I’d already settled on a freshly baked loaf of Scali bread from Madison’s Batch Bakehouse. It crisps up perfectly and the sesame seeds add a nice touch. I tried combinations of 7 different cheeses and was able to narrow it down to the following four:

Carr Valley Cheese Fontina
Cowgirl Creamery Mt. Tam Brie
Sartori MontAmore
Capri Cheese St. Dorian 1st Generation Sheepmilk Gouda

You can tent a piece of tinfoil over the slices to ensure gooey, melty cheese. Mmmm…

The Ransome

Something magical happens when woodsmoke meets wild ramps. The bulbs caramelize and the leaves soften as the bite and bitterness turn to smoky sweetness. Preserve the ramps in a savory pesto and pair with gooey, melty fontina cheese, warm strawberries and creamy brie on fresh bread. Hearty and complex, this grilled cheese sandwich is completely different from anything you’ve tasted before, and perfect for a chilly spring day.

INGREDIENTS

For Smoked Ramp Pesto:

1 bunch of wild leeks (ramps)
½ cup unsalted, dry roasted, shelled, pistachio nuts
½ – 1 cup extra virgin olive oil
½ teaspoon coarse sea salt

For assembly (per sandwich):

1 tablespoon mayonnaise
2 slices from a loaf of Scali bread
¼ cup fontina cheese
¼ cup brie cheese
¼ cup thinly sliced strawberries per sandwich
(optional) 1 tablespoon Wisconsin’s Sartori MontAmore cheese, shredded or crumbled
(optional) 1 tablespoon Wisconsin’s Capri Cheese St. Dorian 1^st Generation Sheepmilk Gouda, shredded or crumbled

HOW TO SMOKE THE RAMPS

Soak three generous handfuls of maple or hickory wood chips in water for at least 1 hour.

Using a charcoal grill (recommended):

Fill a chimney starter with charcoal. Light it and let burn until the coals are covered with a thin layer of ash.
Pour the hot coals on one side of the grill’s bottom grate.
Put some of the soaked wood chips on the hot coals and put the top grate on the grill.
Put the ramps on the top grate opposite the fire.
Cover the grill, positioning the vent on the lid on the side opposite the fire. Stick a thermometer through the vent and heat the grill to about 180°F/80°C.
Smoke the ramps, adjusting the vents and adding wood chips as needed to maintain the temperature. Check every 45 minutes for up to 2 hours or until bulbs are browned and leaves begin to wilt and char. Let cool to room temperature.

If using a smoker:

Following the manufacturer’s instructions, set up and smoke the ramps at 180ºF/80ºC for up to 2 hours or until bulbs are browned and leaves begin to wilt and char. Let cool to room temperature.

MAKING THE SMOKED RAMP PESTO

Once cool, cut the roots off the smoked ramps leaving as much of the bulb as possible.
Toss ramps into food processor (use the whole thing, from the bulb to the leaf).
Add pistachios, ½ cup of evoo and salt to food processor.
Process, adding up to an additional ½ cup of evoo as needed, until a pesto-like consistency forms.

SANDWICH ASSEMBLY

Melt 1 teaspoon of butter in nonstick skillet.
Spread a thin layer of mayonnaise on one side of each bread slice.
Spread the inside of one piece of bread with a thick layer of Wisconsin Brie cheese. Top the brie with strawberries, then layer on slices of Wisconsin Fontina cheese. Sprinkle on MontAmore and St. Dorian Gouda if you’d like. Place the slice, mayonnaise-side-down, in skillet.
Spread the inside of the other slice with a thick layer of smoked ramp and pistachio pesto. Place, pesto-side-down, on top of the slice already in the skillet.
When bread on bottom is slightly golden to golden-brown (based on your personal preference), turn sandwich over and cook ’til bottom slice is slightly golden to golden-brown. Halve for serving and enjoy.